Umi Sushi and Grill on Fourth Street in San Rafael reminds me of sushi bars I have been to in Hawaii. Umi translates to ocean in Japanese and the sea is joyfully celebrated at Yoshi and Atsuko Yoshida's almost two-year-old restaurant. Surf photographs along with a large mural of Mount Fuji with waves lapping at its base adorn one wall. Even a curvy blond wood bar and foam green walls evoke overtones of the sea. A massive menu that includes plenty of nigiri, rolls and unusual appetizers and entrees is almost dizzying.

For adventurous eaters, this place is for you. Though the nigiri is good at Umi, it's the house-made udon noodles prepared by chef Yoshida's wife that really shine here. We tried the kenchin udon ($11) a steaming-hot bowl of miso broth with carrots and starchy burdock root. Long tendrils of tender, fresh noodles had an ethereal lightness to them, yet the heat of the broth and flavorful vegetables together made for a hearty filling dish. We also tried an unusual appetizer of mozuko ($6.50) or seaweed that slithered through my teeth and took me aback with its salty/sweet intensity. Wow.

Surfer/sushi chef Yoshida has been plying his craft for about 15 years. He began his cooking career in Sunnyvale and later in Santa Cruz where he could take advantage of morning surf sessions at Steamers Lane before going to work. Since the couple moved to Fairfax and opened Umi, Bolinas has become his new local break. On a recent visit while Yoshida impressed us with his

knife skills and presented small portions of artfully prepared saba ($4.50), maguro ($5) and hamachi ($5.50), strains of Bob Marley were echoing overhead.

A brightly colored Hawaiian roll ($15) boasted fresh spicy yellow tail, bright red chunks of tuna and bits of mango and macadamia nuts. The sweetness of the mango and crunchy nuts embodied island flavors and transported me straight to the Big Island. Even the tempuras are light and airy — a ten zaru soba ($12) included a mound of soba noodles and a basket of shrimp and vegetable tempura. A rich and salty dipping sauce was ideal for the tempura and the toothsome noodles.

Fifteen sakes are offered and run from $16.50 for a 300 ml bottle of Yaegaki Nigori up to $150 for 720 ml of Dassai Junmai Daiginjo. I'm far from a sake expert, but I like it chilled and the drier the better. A glass of creamy nigori ($8.50) complemented our meal well as did an Asahi Kuronama beer ($5).

I don't usually order dessert at Japanese restaurants, but I couldn't resist the unusual offerings here, such as a coffee jelly with ice cream. The Yoshidas make their own ice cream, which includes black sesame, green tea and red bean. Sweet and chunky with three white, starchy rice cakes

mixed in, a shiratama zenzai ($5) or a pureed red bean sauce, was one of the most unusual desserts I've had. But I can't say I appreciated the chunky texture of the vaguely sweet bean sauce and the starchy rice cakes, very much. But next time I'll try the equally exotic cream anmitsu of seaweed gelatin and red beans.

Though I didn't love everything I tasted, I did enjoy the adventure of it. For anyone who revels in new discoveries, there is much to explore at this not-so-predictable sushi bar.

 

REVIEW

Umi Sushi and Grill

Address: 819 Fourth St., San Rafael

Phone: 415-457-3992

Web site: www.umi-sushi.net

Cuisine: Sushi/Japanese

Service: Very gracious

Noise level: Quiet

Recommended dishes: Udon noodles, rolls, desserts

Liquor selection: Sake, beer and wine

Corkage: N/A

Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: Vege/maki rolls, salads, soups

Parking: Street

Wheelchair access: Yes

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m. weekdays; 4 to 9:30 p.m. Saturdays; closed Sundays

Credit cards: All major

Summary: Expect more than sushi at Yoshi and Atsuko Yoshida's downtown San Rafael restaurant. The two-year-old restaurant makes its own udon noodles and it offers a massive menu that's almost dizzying. Cooked foods — tempura, noodles and inventive appetizers — are more interesting than the sushi.