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This Marin outpost is No. 92 for the chain, but the original opened in 1978 as BJ's Chicago Pizzeria in Southern California's Santa Ana. Today, BJ's (named after one of the original owners) appears everywhere from Oklahoma to Hawaii.
There are typically a few things a chain of this size does pretty well. First, the menu is large, but if you break it down much of the toppings that appear on the pizzas also appear in salads, sandwiches and appetizers. It uses its ingredients well. Second, service is often well scripted and professional. Unfortunately, our two visits here proved this is still very much a work in progress. Third, it's a brewpub, and BJ's has figured out how to make some exceptionally tasty microbrews.
Not only are the beers cleverly named, but beautiful labels painted in bright, deep watercolors adorn one of the TV-free walls. As an amateur beer maker, I appreciated the artistry accompanying such selections as a hearty brown ale-style Nutty Brewnette or the Kolsch-like Brewhouse Blondie and the Jeremiah Red-a malty, ale with lovely hoppy overtones.
But sitting amid hundreds of fellow shoppers stopping in for an afternoon bite and with views of a television from every angle, I didn't feel very relaxed despite our cushy booth. I know — this isn't that kind of place, and for what it is, the place delivers most of the time.
A gigantic appetizer combo ($15.75), which alone could feed a family of four, was set down precariously by an earnest server who encouraged us to enjoy our meal. Two items stood out. One was the avocado egg roll with fresh avocado, cream cheese, sundried tomato and chipotle peppers; the flavors were all over the map but it worked and were especially good dipped in a salty tamarind sauce. And a Santa Fe spring roll burst with fresh south-of-the border flavors and textures. But a bland artichoke dip was my least favorite item; it tasted mostly of mayonnaise.
The calamari ($7.95), a reasonable portion of lightly breaded squid, was nicely prepared but the accompanying sauces were disappointing. The marinara (directly from the pizza kitchen?) was too sweet and tasted like it was out of a jar, and the aioli was a
Entrees are also hit or miss. A tender, juicy barbecue pulled pork sandwich ($9.75, prepared with Jeremiah Red brew) packed into a grilled Kaiser roll hit the spot, but an accompanying purple cabbage cole slaw was a limp mound of wilted shredded cabbage and apple. Salads run the gamut from Caesar to sesame chicken. I tried the Italian market ($10.95), which was chockfull of mozzarella, fontina, salami and artichoke hearts; it was like eating a pizza on a bed of Romaine lettuce. The dressing was a generic vinaigrette.
Here's the deal with BJ's; some folks love these mammoth sports bar-cum-brewpubs. The sheer size of the place generates a certain buzz and energy, even in a mall. It's transporting. For me, I like the beer. I'd go back for the quality handcrafted brews, but I'll leave the oversized portions of mediocre food to my fellow shoppers.
REVIEW
BJ's Restaurant and Brewhouse
Address: 5800 Northgate Mall, San Rafael
Phone: 415-755-6520
Web site: www.bjsbrewhouse.com
Cuisine: American brewpub fare
Service: Slow
Noise level: Loud/boisterous
Recommended dishes: Beer, pizza
Liquor selection: Full bar, microbrews
Corkage: $5
Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: “Lighter Options” includes dishes under 670 calories
Parking: Lot
Wheelchair access: Yes
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Mondays to Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Fridays; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays
Credit cards: All major
Summary: BJ's Restaurant Brewhouse opened its 92nd outpost in Northgate's newly renovated mall with a massive menu featuring deep-dish pizzas, salads and sandwiches. But it's the beer that shines here. Handcrafted and exquisitely delicious, more than 35 are on tap at this behemoth of a brewpub.
