I've often heard folks who live in West Marin refer to the drive “over the hill” as if it were worlds away. But it wasn't until I was sitting at the clubhouse at the San Geronimo Golf Course staring out the windows at a breathtaking view of a ridge of trees as far as the eye could see that I began to understand that phrase.

For the record, I realize the San Geronimo Golf Course is primarily concerned with golfing — not eating. That said, ever since investment broker Robert Lee bought the course, I have noticed banners at the golf course encouraging diners to visit the “new and improved” restaurant that is open to the public.

The East Bay resident has retained the existing staff, but is revamping the restaurant with Annie Simmons at the helm. Previously a chef instructor at the Sonoma-based Ramekins cooking school, Simmons has incorporated plenty of produce, meat and dairy that is produced only miles away.

Since golfing is a daytime activity, only breakfast and lunch are served in the upstairs dining area (although every second Thursday of the month, the restaurant opens for a “supper club,” a family-style dinner with a menu that changes monthly to reflect what's seasonal and fresh). As far as environs go it is quite ordinary, standard clubhouse fare. Aside from a large copper and stone fireplace, the room is nondescript with muted carpet and pastel tones. A spectacular view from the 10-seat bar is undeniably the focal

point of the room.

Standard breakfast items include scrambles, pancakes, hash and a breakfast burrito. Lunch gets a bit more ambitious, where some dishes work and some don't. I had no complaints about a perfectly good Reuben ($8.99) of not too salty pastrami served up on swirled rye bread and tart sauerkraut. However, I ordered a bistro salad ($7.99) of baby greens, bacon, walnuts and a poached egg. Unfortunately, my order got mixed up and instead I received a Caprese salad ($8.99). With

summer's end and tomatoes on their way out it wasn't much of a salad — mostly greens and few slices of mozzarella and bland tomatoes. I had higher hopes for the Cajun barbecue shrimp ($8.99) an oval dish filled with plump rock shrimp and a nice butter sauce but no spice whatsoever. I wish I had ordered the special St. Gerome Burger with brie cheese instead. Fortunately, our friendly bartender/server didn't charge us for the incorrect order and someone from the kitchen offered an apology.

So, here's my recommendation. Try to go when Simmons is in the kitchen. If you go for breakfast or lunch be sure to sit at the bar and take in some of the best views around. Also — although maybe not for breakfast — be sure to sample

one of the five or so quality beers on tap, including a Blue Moon Belgian wheat, or, my favorite, the Hoffbrau House ($4.59), a honey-colored refreshing lager that goes down well on a hot day. As far as the food, burgers and sandwiches are reliable choices, but salads and appetizers still need some tweaking.

 

REVIEW

San Geronimo Golf Course Restaurant

Address: 5800 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Geronimo

Phone: 415-488-4030

Web site: www.golfsangeronimo.com

Cuisine: American

Service: Fine

Noise level: Quiet

Recommended dishes: Burgers, sausages and sandwiches

Liquor selection: Full bar

Corkage: N/A

Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: Grilled veggie panini, garden burger

Parking: Lot

Wheelchair access: Yes

Hours: 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily

Credit cards: All major