Twelve rectangular alderwood tables, stately pillars spaced throughout a rather sparse dining room, mismatched wooden chairs and a kitchen straight out of the early 1900s complete with an Alan Scott pizza oven. Sounds like a hip, new restaurant right? Nope. It's the Mess Hall in building 944 at Fort Barry in Sausalito. Communal dinners, along with open-to the-public art programs at the Headlands Center for the Arts has to be one of Marin's best-kept secrets.

“It's like cooking for a family,” explains soft-spoken 32-year-old chef Keith Mercovich, who spends his days in the center's historic light-filled kitchen that dates back to 1907. Though updated by well-known visual artist Ann Hamilton in the 1980s it still retains a certain turn-of-the century austerity. A cluster of one-time military buildings, now home to the Marin Headlands Center for the Arts, has been transformed to include an artists-in-residence program (which can accommodate about 30 artists a season), an 1,800-square-foot project studio space and the historic Mess Hall.

I filed into the welcoming, yellow-tiled dining room along with at least 30 to 40 arty academic types, confirmed my reservation, paid $20, picked up a plate and joined a table of friendly strangers. The dishes posted on the blackboard were set on each table and offered up family style.

To be fair, I was a little late, so the meal wasn't as warm as I would have preferred. But the lentil dosas had a nice toothsome texture

and the accompanying yellow dal with white ginger was well seasoned and hearty. A basmati rice was on the bland side, but a salad of fresh Romaine lettuce, crunchy radishes and sunflower seeds popped with a tangy lemon-thyme vinaigrette. Sugar cones filled with house-made bourbon and Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream provided a perfect, creamy ending to an enjoyable meal.

After the last cone was devoured, we all picked up our dishes and formed an assembly line in the kitchen. Did I mention

washing your own dishes is also part of this communal-dining experience?

Mercovich's primary job consists of cooking dinners for the artists in residence (who live in nearby studios for nine-month periods), while the open-to-the-public events are typically not more than once a month. The last session of the year is Dec. 2 (in conjunction with a program of ghost stories; however, Mercovich will not be cooking that night).

So, if you like communal dining, fresh and inventive cooking — not to mention the opportunity to experience art programs — and don't mind being surrounded by the beautiful Marin Headlands, this place is a must visit.

Please note — guests may not just show up for these public programs.

Reservations are required at least three days in advance and cost $20 ($15 for members). The events and dinners are offered only during the center's season, from March through December.

 

REVIEW

Headlands Center for the Arts Mess Hall

Address: Building 944, Fort Barry, Sausalito

Phone: 415-331-2787

Web site: www.headlands.org

Cuisine: California

Service: Self-serve, family-style

Noise level: Convivial

Recommended dishes: Changes with every dinner

Liquor selection: Wine (donation requested)

Corkage: None

Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: Many

Parking: Lot

Wheelchair access: Yes

Hours: Varied, but mostly at 6 p.m.; call or e-mail info@headlands.org

Credit cards: Cash or check only

Summary: The Marin Headlands Center for the Arts offers communal dining and it's not just for the artists in residence. Monthly public programs offer the opportunity to visit Fort Barry's converted army barracks and enjoy dinner in a historic Mess Hall; the last session of the year is Dec. 2. Tasty meals are shared family-style and followed by an art program offered by the artists who study there.