Owner Mike Lang delivers plates to diners at Antigua Mexican Grill in Mill Valley. (Frankie Frost photo)
The first thing I noticed when I walked through the sliding glass door at Antigua in the Alto Shopping Center in Mill Valley was, well, the sliding glass door. Maybe sliders are a reality of restaurants in shopping centers in the suburbs.

Inside, however, what once was Peking Wok has been newly decorated into something downright cheery. Textured tangerine-painted walls, art nouveau light sconces and comfortable orange leather chairs give the room an upbeat, festive flair.

Owners Mike and Sandy Lang, who live in Marin, had been hoping to find a local space for their restaurant. Instead, they opened QuiXote two years ago in San Francisco. Now they offer a similar menu at the East Blithedale space fittingly named after La Antigua in Mexico City, where they celebrated their wedding nearly 10 years ago.

A lot of things stand out on this menu, including an inventive list of specialty drinks - especially intriguing since they are all prepared without spirits. A 23-year-old recipe for the ultimate sangria and a Margarita de faux prepared with agave soju suggests someone knows his way around a bar. It turns out that person is Mike Lang, who was the general manager at Izzy's Steaks & Chops in Corte Madera for many years. With his wife and Rosa Solis, both from Mexico City, heading up the kitchen, it's no surprise that many favorites from their hometown have found their way on to Antigua's menu.

The aptly named ultimate sangria ($7.50) is indeed one of the

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best, if not the best I've ever tasted. Prepared with port and loaded with banana, cantaloupe and apple, it bears little resemblance to the cloying, headache-producing ones I've so often encountered. This version is nicely balanced and not too sweet, and the range of multitextured fruit, though confusing, work beautifully. It was an especially nice complement to an earthy mole enchilada plate ($12.95) A deep, dark and smoky mole thick as honey came spread over two chicken enchiladas accompanied
The mole enchilada plate has a deep, dark and smoky mole thick as honey spread over two chicken enchiladas paired with an ample portion of pinto beans and rice at Antigua. (Frankie Frost photo)
by a generous portion of pinto beans and rice. Apparently a secret family recipe shared between sisters, the mole is a rare offering in the San Francisco restaurant, but the owners say it's a permanent item in Mill Valley.

A stunning special, molcajete ($22.95) feeds two and translates to a stone tool or mortar for grinding spices. the medley of grilled steak, chunks of chicken breast and prawns is served sizzling hot; the meats were juicy and wrapped in corn tortillas with rice, beans and sour cream. Delectable. A mahi mahi fish taco ($3.65), though not super-flavorful, was moist and elevated by a tropical salsa of mango and cilantro. Likewise, a camarones fajita combo ($14.95) featured succulent shrimp and well-seasoned grilled skirt steak.

The only dish that disappointed was a queso fundido ($5.95) that was cold by the time it reached our table and had hardened to the point of inedibility.

Only open since Oct. 15, Antigua Mexican Grill is drawing crowds. Although prices overall aren't low - most likely influenced by Antigua's use of hormone-free beef, free-range chicken and organics as much as possible - they aren't prohibitive, either.

After the last bite of the caramel-drenched, creamy flan ($5), I decided that there was no question that the food here is every bit as good as meals I have enjoyed south of the border.

REVIEW: Antigua Mexican Grill
Address: Alto Shopping Center, 721 E. Blithedale, Mill Valley
Phone: 415-388-3882
Web site: www.quixotesgrill.com (San Francisco restaurant; similar menu)
Cuisine: Mexican
Service: Good
Noise level: Can get loud
Recommended dishes: Mole enchiladas, mocajete, fajitas
Liquor selection: Specialty drinks made with soju and beer and wine
Corkage: $7
Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: Vegetarian tacos and fajitas, nopales
Parking: Lot
Wheelchair access: Yes
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays,  4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays.
Credit cards: All major
Summary: A welcome addition to Mill Valley, Antigua Mexican Grill offers well-made Mexican food. Two of the three owners hail from Mexico City and bring family favorites, including delicious chicken mole enchiladas and superb sangria. This family-friendly spot seems well on its way of becoming a local favorite. As a bonus, delivery is available, too.

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