Piazza D'Angelo is a Mill Valley institution. Brothers Domenico and Paolo Petrone have owned the upscale trattoria that sits directly across from the downtown square, or piazza, since 1991. For many it has become a familiar home away from home.

Year after year Italian cuisine ranks as the No. 1 food favored by Americans. There is good reason for this — the ingredients are familiar. Pasta, tomatoes and fresh herbs — nothing too exotic. But it's the other components that so often accompany Italian dining that hold equal allure.

It is these “other components” such as a convivial dining room, charming servers and a familial sense of belonging where Piazza D'Angelo truly shines. A genuine sense of warmth and good

cheer pervades.

The Petrones, who grew up in Calabria, Italy, brought chef Massimo Covello, who hails from the same region, on board in July. Covello has worked in kitchens abroad, as well as for Larkspur's Emporio Rulli and Mill Valley's Frantoio. They have developed a menu that is equal parts Southern Italian and Northern California, but desserts are pure Italian, featuring such ingredients as ricotta cheese, pine nuts, raisins and orange peel.

I have a weakness for burrata, the soft, fresh oh-so-special mozzarella cheese that is typically flown in from Italy and still magically appears as fresh as though it were prepared minutes before. Piazza's version ($12.50) didn't disappoint. Though luscious and creamy, it was surprisingly

served with tomatoes and briny olives. Tomatoes aren't in season and salty olives are necessary with such a prized cheese. A simple drizzle of olive oil and a crusty baguette would have sufficed.

On the other hand, a perfect seasonal note was struck with the vellutata di zucca or kabocha squash soup ($6.95). This earthy concoction with bits of mushroom had just the right heft and sweetness.

Though cozily ensconced in a booth in the quieter back dining area, I half-envied the more boisterous crowd in the front. But at D'Angelo's, there are many options. Between two patios, a front bar area and a more-romantic, back dining area, it is possible to have entirely different experiences with each visit. For instance, a glass of invigorating Calabrian scavigna bianco ($7.50), a blend of chardonnay, trebbiano, Greco and malvasia, and perhaps one of the six wood-fired pizzas — my favorite is the pizza con salsiccie piccanti ($12.50) — is an ideal more casual experience that nourishes on all fronts.

On one recent visit the delivery of our main course was presented with so much flair and pride I felt a bit sheepish for not appreciating it more. But the unusual saltimbocca alla Romana ($19.75) featuring generous

rounds of pounded veal draped over glistening heaps of Swiss chard encircled by wedges of Yukon Gold potatoes was disappointing. A lighter touch might have saved the dish from the excessive saltiness presented by the wrapped prosciutto and a rich veal reduction sauce. Likewise a silken, almost ethereal creamy tomato sauce was brought down to earth with a crash by the accompanying chewy house-made ricotta and spinach-stuffed tortellini.

Chef Covello is also handling pastry duties, and after one bite of a crostata di ricotta ($7) I couldn't help but think this is where his talents lie. The fresh ricotta cheese, hints of orange and pine nuts all lightly baked into a flaky pasta frolla crust made me swoon. The lush texture and bright flavors were exceedingly good with a steaming hot cappuccino.

D'Angelo's reminds us that dining isn't always just about the food. When it comes to Italian we are very forgiving and may even turn a blind eye to the quality of the food itself. Instead, the many other factors that add up to a satisfying experience often outweigh the caliber of just the cuisine, and we leave feeling nourished, satisfied and happy.

 

REVIEW

Piazza D'Angelo

Address: 22 Miller Ave., Mill Valley

Phone: 415-388-2000

Web site: www.piazzadangelo.com

Cuisine: Southern Italian and Northern California

Service: Professional

Noise level: Varies

Recommended dishes: Burrata, kabocha squash soup, desserts

Liquor selection: Full bar

Corkage: $15

Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: Salads

Parking: Street

Wheelchair access: Yes

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. weekdays, 10:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. weekends

Credit cards: All major

Summary: A new chef has joined this Mill Valley institution that offers multiple dining options. From pizza at the convivial bar to cozy romantic dinners featuring plenty of locally sourced products — all can all be had in Piazza D'Angelo's warm and inviting family-owned trattoria.