Sam Jarjoura opened his eponymous eatery in January 2006 and built a steady clientele who traveled to his on-the-side-of-the-freeway location for big greasy breakfasts and predictable American favorites. He described his menu at Sam's Roadhouse Diner as, “Everyday food for everyday people.”

Jarjoura still owns the cheery roadside restaurant, but now, along with American classics, the kitchen at the newly named Points South is cooking up Mayan or Yucatan food for dinner.

It's a refreshing addition.

Cherry red vinyl booths, hanging stained-glass lights, hardwood floors and a necessary diner fixture — a small counter with seats — all give Points South a cheery, down-home feeling. Friendlier than friendly servers are also a draw, but the American food here is just mediocre. A mound of ground beef, scrambled eggs and mushrooms ($9.50), aka the Roadhouse Rumble, has few discernible flavors, and boasts just one large, bland mixture of protein. More finesse was shown with an eggs Florentine ($10.95); the two nicely poached eggs draped in a lemony, well-made hollandaise with plenty of spinach and crispy English muffins were satisfying. But not cheap — breakfast for two adults and a child came to $50.

For my money, I'd skip breakfast and come back for the Yucatan menu served after 5 p.m. Gladys Cohuo prepares fresh, handmade corn tortillas while husband Santos and brother Jesus Pziu offer a menu of Yucatan classics. We tried a superb

cochinita pibil ($9.95) of finely pulled pork that had been marinated in achiote and slow-roasted in banana leaves. Pretty pickled pink onions adorned this tender and flavor-filled pork dish. The panuchos ($7.95) resembled chicken tacos; its three crispy tortillas came piled high with strips of chicken, jalapenos, avocado and lettuce.

Initially I was less enthralled with a poc chuc de puerco ($9.95). Pureed black beans had a heavy dose of bacon fat thrown in and the pieces of pork were on the chewy side. However, once combined with a sweet roasted-tomato salsa, sprinkled with accompanying sauteed onions and wrapped in a warm, toothsome corn tortilla, it was irresistible. I ate every bite.

Additional intriguing items include a pavo en reyeno negro prepared with turkey, capers, olives eggs and a mole sauce. Pumpkin seeds, white beans, olives and hard-boiled eggs are just some of the unexpected ingredients used in the Yucatan dishes offered.

As far as I know, Points South is the only restaurant serving Yucatan food in Marin. I'll go back for the spicy and unusual dishes from a unique region in Mexico. Live music that will feature a DJ and south of the border musica is also in the works. Every Sunday, tables are

moved out of the way and Points South transforms into a Latin-style nightclub.

Arriba, arriba!

 

REVIEW

Points South

Address: 271 Alameda del Prado, Novato

Phone: 415-382-6196

Web site: www.samsroadhousediner.com

Cuisine: American favorites and Yucatan dinner specialties

Service: Very friendly

Noise level: Fine

Recommended dishes: Cochinita pibil, panuchos, Yucatan dishes

Liquor selection: Beer and wine

Corkage: NA

Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: None

Parking: Lot shared with EconoLodge

Wheelchair access: Yes

Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesdays to Fridays; 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. weekends

Credit cards: All major

Summary: Yucatan foods are taking center stage at Points South in Novato. Along with American classics, you can find unusual regional Mexican foods such as cochinita pibil and panuchos at this Marin diner. The decor is classic diner, and service is friendlier than friendly.