Much like its name, which is often used to refer to an experience that can't be reduced to its individual parts, the Gestalt Haus is made up of many parts, all of them quirky. Some of the Gestalt Haus crew cut ties with the flagship bar — originally in San Francisco's Mission District — and moved closer to their favorite playground.

It is unlikely a more ideal place exists for this renegade concept.

After attempting for months to move in to a different location on Bolinas Road, Gestalt Haus finally opened its doors in the old Bookbeat location. Along with a few remaining books and board games, you'll also find a handful of tables, including two long plank Hofbrau-style ones complete with benches in the middle of the

room. Behind a plywood bar are a handful of German and domestic beers on tap, and a selection of bratwurst is served until 2 a.m. Oh, and Boozely's pickled green beans made by an avid cyclist named Brad sell for $10 a jar. Did I mention the place is quirky?

But by far the most unique characteristic of this place are the bike racks that cover almost an entire wall. Mountain, road or Radio Flyer trikes, they all share space on the rack. It's becoming especially popular with the night-riding folks. The busiest time at this Fairfax newcomer is after 9 p.m.

Just like the menu, the room is pretty bare bones. A jukebox sits in the far corner of the room, while the bar and bike racks take up the rest of the space. Exposed ducts and

several Hofbrau promotional posters adorn the walls. More of a bar than a restaurant, beer is front and center here. About four German beers are on draft and available by the pint — prices range from $5 to $9. I like the Hofbrau Munchen lager; it's smooth and tangy and bites the spiciness of the hearty fare. There a few wine selections, but I'd stick to the beer. A Franziskaner wheat style is also a good complement to the meat-heavy menu.

There is no real kitchen, so all the food (five brats and potato salad) is prepared off-site in a commercial kitchen, and simply reheated in the “back room.” Bits of bacon and no mayo made the potato salad better than average and especially good for soaking up those liter-sized steins of brew.

We tried the bratwurst ($5), and aside from the chipotle (vegan) version that was so spicy I thought my throat would close up, they were juicy and flavorful. Andouille, apple sausage, kielbasa and an Italian option are all served on fresh Bay Bread buns with a generous dollop of tangy, crispy sauerkraut. A selection of mustard and ketchup are also available.

With its stripped-down interior, equally sparse menu and plenty of attitude, the cycling community has taken on Gestalt Haus as one of its own. The sense of bringing an already tight knit community together is palpable here, and it seems this Fairfax addition is well on its way to living up to its name.

REVIEW

Gestalt Haus

Address: 28 Bolinas Road, Fairfax

Phone: None

Web site: www.gestalthausfairfax.com

Cuisine: Hofbrau-style gathering spot

Service: Adequate

Noise level: Loud

Recommended dishes: German beer, potato salad, brats

Liquor selection: Beer and wine

Corkage:

Not that kind of place

Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: Chipotle brat (vegan), pickled green beans

Parking: Street

Wheelchair access: Yes

Hours: 5:30 p.m. to midnight Mondays; 5:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesdays to Fridays; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. weekends

Credit cards: Cash only

Summary: Beer, brats, bikes is what Gestalt Haus is all about. The Fairfax newcomer provides a Hofbrau-style gathering spot for cyclists to drink beer, eat hearty sausages and talk shop — even bike racks are provided in a bare-bones space.