I reviewed Piccolo Teatro shortly after it opened in September 2008. It was clear that the beautifully transformed space was something special, however, the menu didn't seem in sync with the stunning room, convivial bar and friendly local vibe. What a difference about 1 year can make. With a new chef who has revamped the menu, Piccolo Teatro has hit its stride. Today it's the complete and pretty package it always hinted at becoming.

Owner DJ Puffert is an art historian turned restaurateur who transformed the once shabby watering hole landmark into a sleek, urban eatery with a European sensibility. Puffert took great pains to maintain the integrity of the 1892 building while at the same time making it greener and, in his words, a cleaner

look.

Initially the menu featured a selection of cinicetta, paninis and pastas. That has changed for the better. Since November, chef Amey Shaw has been delighting customers with her refined yet rustic food. Some may remember her superb cooking ta Plaza in San Francisco's Fillmore district in the 1990s. More recently she had been consulting with East Bay restaurants, but she missed the kitchen. When she was offered the job at Piccolo, she said yes.

Shaw is an exceptionally talented chef and knows how to bring clean, bright flavors to the forefront of her interpreted Italian dishes. A hearty lentil soup was the zuppa di Giorno ($7) on a recent blustery night. Browned and seared mushrooms, sherry vinegar and most certainly a chunk

of salty pork brought a deep earthiness to this rich soup. The essence of red peppers and lemon made a house-made strozzapretti pasta dish ($16) with several generously sized Gulf shrimp sing. The toothsome pasta and layers of flavors elevated this simple pasta to a regal state; I loved it. Unexpected spices show up in unusual places, but they work. Shaw gives a nod to her love of Asian cooking by adding ginger to a sublime butternut squash ravioli ($14) that combines with chive and butter for a melting taste sensation.

She also embraces bitter greens — broccoli rabe and radicchio show up frequently on her menu. A grilled radicchio and fontina cheese appetizer ($7) featured three small bundles of rolled leaves that enrobed the fontina. However, the greens overpowered the cheese and needed more foil/softening; even for a bitter greens lover it was too strong. But a broccoli rabe, wild mushroom and faro accompaniment to a pork saltimbocca ($17) struck the perfect balanced note.

The only thing I was unimpressed with were the stuffed eggs featuring various fillings including salumi, tuna, truffles and duck. These were brought over from the previous menu, and frankly seem out of place with the more robust offerings.

There are many more interesting items to choose from, including a fresh pulled mozzarella or fresh sardines.

A carefully selected wine list includes slightly more Italian than domestic options but both are available by the glass. We tried a delightful Sirch Friulano “Albana” Friuli ($12) and a fruity Bele Casel Prosecco Colli Asolani ($9). Both were lovely, and worked well with the flavor-filled food choices — not overwhelming them, just complementing. A full bar is also a big draw here, but thankfully it doesn't overtake the entire room and diners can enjoy their meals without feeling intruded upon by a boisterous bar scene.

I'm excited about the changes at Piccolo. With its streamlined menu and capable chef at the helm, this Sausalito waterfront spot, which already had a lot going for it, is heading toward a higher level.

 

REVIEW

Piccolo Teatro

Address: 739 Bridgeway, Sausalito

Phone: 415-332-0739

Web site: www.piccoloteatrodisausaltio.com

Cuisine: Italian

Service: Good

Noise level: Moderate

Recommended dishes: Soups, strozzapretti, desserts

Liquor selection: Full bar, Italian and domestic wines

Corkage: $15

Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: Salads

Parking: Street

Wheelchair access: Yes

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays; 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; reduced menu between 3 and 5 p.m.

Credit cards: All major

Summary: Piccolo Teatro has become a favorite with locals and travelers alike. With its beautiful room and lively bar, things just got better here — namely the food. A new chef brings a focused and exciting menu to this hot spot that has finally hit its stride.